Textiles in Motion  
Dress for Dance in the Ancient World
Author(s): Audrey Gouy
Published by Oxbow Books
Publication Date:  Available in all formats
ISBN: 9781789257991
Pages: 0

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An innovative series of case studies looking at the significance, meaning and social context of costume and textiles used in dance among a variety of ancient cultures and civilisations.

Dress is at the core of dance. It adorns dancers, defines various roles and forms symbolic expressions that, for example, either bind people together or opposes them. It is a communicative tool that gives crucial information for understanding the dance as well as the culture and the sociological effects of a group of people. As such, dress transcends how it is seen visually to address what is being communicated. Nonetheless, studies in ancient dance have rarely taken clothing into consideration.
Therefore, this publication gathers articles that give new perspectives and insights on ancient dances and their ancient textiles. Comprehension of ancient dance benefits from investigations undertaken through the lens of dress. And research on ancient dress is understood through its relation to body movement and performative rituals, thus reinforcing the progressive integration of an anthropological and sociological dimension into historical analysis of ancient textiles. For the first time, the two-way transfer of knowledge between dance studies and costume studies is connected via an innovative approach. Among the issues that are specifically addressed are the movement design of dress for dance, its sensory experience, gender and identity, re-enactment and reception.
The chronological range of the publication is limited to the ancient world (3rd millennium BC to 5th century AD), and the geographical definition is meant to be broad in order to promote a comparative approach and cross-cultural dialogue, as well as discourse between fields and disciplines.
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An innovative series of case studies looking at the significance, meaning and social context of costume and textiles used in dance among a variety of ancient cultures and civilisations.

Dress is at the core of dance. It adorns dancers, defines various roles and forms symbolic expressions that, for example, either bind people together or opposes them. It is a communicative tool that gives crucial information for understanding the dance as well as the culture and the sociological effects of a group of people. As such, dress transcends how it is seen visually to address what is being communicated. Nonetheless, studies in ancient dance have rarely taken clothing into consideration.
Therefore, this publication gathers articles that give new perspectives and insights on ancient dances and their ancient textiles. Comprehension of ancient dance benefits from investigations undertaken through the lens of dress. And research on ancient dress is understood through its relation to body movement and performative rituals, thus reinforcing the progressive integration of an anthropological and sociological dimension into historical analysis of ancient textiles. For the first time, the two-way transfer of knowledge between dance studies and costume studies is connected via an innovative approach. Among the issues that are specifically addressed are the movement design of dress for dance, its sensory experience, gender and identity, re-enactment and reception.
The chronological range of the publication is limited to the ancient world (3rd millennium BC to 5th century AD), and the geographical definition is meant to be broad in order to promote a comparative approach and cross-cultural dialogue, as well as discourse between fields and disciplines.
Table of contents
  • Front Cover
  • Title Page
  • Copyright Page
  • Contents
  • Scientific committee
  • List of contributors
  • Introduction (Audrey Gouy)
  • Part 1: Practicalities
    • 1. Practical perspectives on dance and clothing
  • Part 2: Movement and design
    • 2. Dancing in flames – fabulous designs from the desert sands. Reconstructing the east Central Asian skirt’s construction secret
    • 3. The whirling dance of Baukis: reinterpreting our sources
    • 4. Dance and metatheatre in Menander’s Theophoroumene
  • Part 3: Embodiment and communication
    • 5. The unhellenic attire of choruses as image of the ‘other’ in ancient Greek tragedy
    • 6. The dress of the dancing lares
    • 7. Dance and clothing in ancient Egypt ‒ the earliest evidence
  • Part 4: Cognition and sensory experience
    • 8. Soft cloth and sounding jewellery – sound fields of rich women in Eastern Hallstatt culture
    • 9. Flowing white dresses for dancing initiates in the Mysteries of Eleusis
    • 10. Fashioning sensescapes through ancient Egyptian dance
  • Part 5: Images and metaphors
    • 11. Dancing around the goddess’ dress
    • 12. ‘Wearing’ tattoos in ancient Egypt. Evidence from Middle Kingdom mummies and feminine figurines
  • Part 6: Modern reception
    • 13. Egyptologist dancers – re-enacting ‘ancient Egyptian’ dances at the beginning of the 20th century
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