This ground-breaking book documents the weaving traditions and textiles of one of Asia’s most ethnically diverse areas, placing them in a regional context. Based on more than a decade of first-hand study in the field, the authors record the traditions of Miao, Yao, Buyi, Dong, Zhuang, Maonan, Dai and Li weavers from Guizhou to Hainan Island. They describe the looms and techniques of these groups, including diagrams, descriptions and photographs of the weaving processes and woven structures. Each tradition is illustrated with outstanding examples of textiles, drawn from the He Haiyan collection in Beijing, including many 19th century examples.

The authors present a novel analysis of loom technology across the Asian mainland, using techniques derived from linguistics and biology. They use these to chart the evolutionary history of looms in Asia, demonstrating that all the major traditions are related in spite of their apparent diversity. The results have far-reaching implications, for example shedding light on the development of the Chinese Drawloom and showing how key patterning features were derived from Tai-Kadai looms.

The book is a visual delight as well as a resource for scholars, collectors and curators. The fieldwork in this book is a primary, while the looms and techniques will be essential reading for those interested in weaving and textile history, as well as contemporary weavers and designers wishing to learn how to reproduce traditional patterns and methods. The account of the development and links between weaving cultures will be a revelation for those interested in cultural evolution and the diversity of mankind.

• Cover
• Title Page
• Copyright
• Contents
• Acknowledgments
• Preliminary note
• Foreword
• Part I: Background
  • Introduction
  • Chapter 1: cultural and historical context
  • Chapter 2: textiles and looms in ancient Chinese culture
  • Chapter 3: introduction to the looms and brocades of Southwest China
• Part II: Field Research
  • Chapter 4: the Miao-Yao peoples
    • 4.1 The Miao
    • 4.2 Guangxi Antai area
    • 4.3 Guizhou Panxian area
    • 4.4 Guizhou Zhaoxing area
    • 4.5 Guizhou Zhouxi area
    • 4.6 Guizhou Bakai area
    • 4.7 Guizhou Geyi area
    • 4.8 Guizhou Huishui area
    • 4.9 Guizhou Shidong area
    • 4.10 Guizhou Huangping area
    • 4.11 Guizhou Liuhe area
    • 4.12 Guizhou Biasha area
    • 4.13 Guizhou Qiandongnan area
    • 4.14 Guizhou Rongjiang area
    • 4.15 Guizhou Bijie area
    • 4.16 Guizhou Songtao area
    • 4.17 The Yao
    • 4.18 Guangxi Longji area (‘Hong Yao’)
    • 4.19 Hunan Jianghua area
    • 4.20 Guangxi Jinxiu area
    • 4.21 Guangxi Bama and Du’an areas
  • Chapter 5: the Daic (Tai-Kadai) peoples
    • 5.1 Introduction
    • 5.2 A note about Daic Complex Pattern Heddles
    • 5.3 The Li
    • 5.4 Hainan Donghezhen (Meifu Li)
    • 5.5 Hainan Wuzhishan (Qi Li)
    • 5.6 Ha Li
    • 5.7 Run Li
    • 5.8 The Buyi
    • 5.9 Guizhou Libo area
    • 5.10 Guizhou Xingyi area
    • 5.11 Guizhou Changshun area
    • 5.12 Guizhou Qiannan area
    • 5.13 The Dong
    • 5.14 Hunan Tongdao area
    • 5.15 Guizhou Bazhai area
    • 5.16 Guizhou Liping area
    • 5.17 The Maonan
    • 5.18 Guangxi Huanjiang area
    • 5.19 The Mulao, Guangxi Huanjiang area
    • 5.20 The Zhuang
    • 5.21 Guangxi Binyang area
    • 5.22 Guangxi Jingxi area
    • 5.23 Guangxi Napo area
    • 5.24 Yunnan Funing area
    • 5.25 Yunnan Wenshan area
    • 5.26 Yunnan Qiubei area
    • 5.27 Guangxi Baise area
    • 5.28 The Dai
    • 5.29 Yunnan Yingjiang area
    • 5.30 South Yunnan area
  • Chapter 6: the Sinitic peoples
    • 6.1 The Tujia
    • 6.2 Hunan Longshan area
• Part III: Analysis
  • Chapter 7: the evolution of the Asian loom
    • 7.1 Introduction
    • 7.2 Methods and results
    • 7.3 Loom evolution: a narrative
    • 7.4 Loom evolution: a geographical model
    • 7.5 The Chinese Drawloom
• Appendices
  • Appendix 1: A note on the interpretation of the Rhapsody on Women Weavers
  • Appendix 2: Minority textiles as ‘tribute’ to the Chinese court
  • Appendix 3: Traditional natural dyes and fibres
  • Appendix 4: Myths and deities related to weaving
  • Appendix 5: Phylogenetic methods
• Glossaries of loom and weaving terms
• Bibliography