Textile Production in Pre-Roman Italy  
Author(s): Margarita Gleba
Published by Oxbow Books
Publication Date:  Available in all formats
ISBN: 9781782976035
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Older than both ceramics and metallurgy, textile production is a technology which reveals much about prehistoric social and economic development. This book examines the archaeological evidence for textile production in Italy from the transition between the Bronze Age and Early Iron Ages until the Roman expansion (1000-400 BCE), and sheds light on both the process of technological development and the emergence of large urban centres with specialised crafts. Margarita Gleba begins with an overview of the prehistoric Appennine peninsula, which featured cultures such as the Villanovans and the Etruscans, and was connected through colonisation and trade with the other parts of the Mediterranean. She then focuses on the textiles themselves: their appearance in written and iconographic sources, the fibres and dyes employed, how they were produced and what they were used for: we learn, for instance, of the linen used in sails and rigging on Etruscan ships, and of the complex looms needed to produce twill. Featuring a comprehensive analysis of textiles remains and textile tools from the period, the book recovers information about funerary ritual, the sexual differentiation of labour (the spinners and weavers were usually women) and the important role the exchange of luxury textiles played in the emergence of an elite. Textile production played a part in ancient Italian society's change from an egalitarian to an aristocratic social structure, and in the emergence of complex urban communities.
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Older than both ceramics and metallurgy, textile production is a technology which reveals much about prehistoric social and economic development. This book examines the archaeological evidence for textile production in Italy from the transition between the Bronze Age and Early Iron Ages until the Roman expansion (1000-400 BCE), and sheds light on both the process of technological development and the emergence of large urban centres with specialised crafts. Margarita Gleba begins with an overview of the prehistoric Appennine peninsula, which featured cultures such as the Villanovans and the Etruscans, and was connected through colonisation and trade with the other parts of the Mediterranean. She then focuses on the textiles themselves: their appearance in written and iconographic sources, the fibres and dyes employed, how they were produced and what they were used for: we learn, for instance, of the linen used in sails and rigging on Etruscan ships, and of the complex looms needed to produce twill. Featuring a comprehensive analysis of textiles remains and textile tools from the period, the book recovers information about funerary ritual, the sexual differentiation of labour (the spinners and weavers were usually women) and the important role the exchange of luxury textiles played in the emergence of an elite. Textile production played a part in ancient Italian society's change from an egalitarian to an aristocratic social structure, and in the emergence of complex urban communities.
Table of contents
  • Cover
  • Title Page
  • Copyright
  • Contents
  • List of Figures
  • List of Tables
  • List of Maps
  • Preface
  • Acknowledgements
  • Abbreviations
  • Introduction
  • Part 1: Geographical and Chronological Context
    • Chronology
      • Bronze Age
      • Early Iron Age
      • The Orientalising phenomenon
    • Burial customs
    • Settlement structure
      • Urbanisation
    • Exchange and trade
    • Colonisation
    • Cultures and facies
      • North Italy
      • Central Adriatic Italy
      • Central Tyrrhenian Italy
      • South Italy
      • Sicily
      • Sardinia
    • Conclusions
  • Part 2: Sources
    • Written sources
    • Iconography
      • Costume
      • Utilitarian textiles
      • Pattern
      • Production
    • Archaeological evidence
      • Textiles
      • Textile tools
  • Part 3: Fibres and Textiles
    • Textiles
      • Yarn
      • Weave
      • Finishing
      • Effects of use and re-use
    • Archaeological textiles of Italy
    • Catalogue
      • Neolithic period and Bronze Age
      • Iron Age
    • Fibres
      • Flax
      • Hemp
      • Tree bast and other plant fibres
      • Esparto
      • Wool
      • Goat wool
    • Dyes
      • Levelers and mordants
      • Washing
      • Dye plants and animals
      • Archaeological evidence for dyes in Italy
      • Iconographic evidence
      • Purple
    • Gold thread
    • Textile technology
      • Variety of fibres
      • Yarn
      • Thread count
      • Weaves
      • Tablet borders
      • Dyeing
      • Sewing
    • Textile function and context
      • Garments
      • Shrouds
      • Wrappings
      • Utilitarian textiles and furnishings
      • Ship rigging and sails
      • Books
    • Conclusions
  • Part 4: Techniques and Tools
    • Fibre preparation
      • Flax
      • Wool
      • Shears
      • Sorting and washing
      • Comb
      • Hook
      • Situla
    • Spinning
      • Spindle
      • Spinning hook
      • Spindle whorl
      • Distaff
    • Weaving
      • Loom
      • Loom weight
      • Beating tools
    • Tablet weaving
      • Tablet
      • Spool
      • Clasp
      • Spacer and pegs
    • Other textile techniques
    • Finishing
      • Linen: bleaching and smoothing
      • Wool: fulling
      • Pleating
    • Dyeing
      • Dyeing installations
      • Grinding and pounding tools
      • Purple
    • Sewing
      • Needle
      • Knife
    • Conclusions
  • Part 5: Contexts
    • Settlement context
      • Bronze Age settlements
      • Late Bronze Age–Early Iron Age settlements
      • Orientalising and Archaic period settlements
      • Post-Archaic period settlements
      • A case study: Poggio Civitate (Murlo)
    • Burial context
      • Gender
      • Status
      • Skill
      • Age
    • Votive and sacred context
      • Votive deposits
      • Foundation deposits
      • Sanctuary textile production
    • Shipwrecks
    • Conclusions
  • Part 6: Technology, Production and Trade
    • Technology and its changes
      • Changes in animal husbandry
      • Increase in number of tools and their standardisation
      • New tools
      • New textiles: twill and other ‘standard’ weaves
    • Production
      • Modes of production
      • Specialisation
      • Specialists: craftswomen and men
      • Labour organisation
    • Exchange
      • Trade
      • Gift exchange
      • Information exchange
    • Conclusions
  • Part 7: Coda: Textile Production in its Social Context
  • Notes
  • Bibliography
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